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KangGURU Travels to Flores in 2004

KGRE travels throughout Indonesia delivering Teacher Workshops to English language teachers, visiting schools and radio stations, addressing KG Connection Clubs and meeting KGRE listeners and readers. On this trip Kevin travels to Waikabubak and SMP1 in Waingapu in Sumba. He then went onto Flores calling in on Ende, Bajawa and Maumere. He went to see AusAID projects including ACCESS, NTT PEP, COREMAP and the Australian volunteers (AVIs) working in SMP schools in the EndeBajawa and Maumere. While in Ende Kevin visited RRI Ende to organize the broadcasting of KGRE in the area.

Sumba

Sumba and Merpati

This trip had been a long time in the planning. Ogi had been on the phone for weeks organizing workshop times and contacts, hotel rooms, transport and schools. Finally it was on and I left Denpasar at 11.30 for the 90 minute flight to Sumba. The city of Waingapu in Eastern Sumba was still 30 minutes away when I noticed the plane sort of shuddered and shook a little. Then the engine noise dropped significantly and we slowed down quite noticeably. The right hand engine had stopped at 20,000 feet right above the dry and rocky landscape of Sumba directly below. 

We were now flying on just one engine. About 5 minutes later the pilot announced to the passengers about what had happened and told us there was nothing to worry about. It seems that the plane can fly quite well on one engine. If that is the case why did they waste the money and build the plane with two engines in the first place. I was however a little concerned because if one engine could stop then maybe the other engine could stop as well. Can Fokker F27 aircraft glide? And we were getting lower and lower and as it seemed to me heading towards rocky and very hard land surfaces below. It turns out that the airport at Waingapu was about 15 minutes away. Landing was a bit scary as the plane swerved along the runway with the squealing of tires on the tarmac and passengers being tossed from side to side. There were emergency vehicles at the side of the runway too with their red flashing lights spinning furiously. At the end of the runway it was quite difficult for the pilot to turn the plane around with only one engine working. Eventually we made it safely to the terminal and disembarked. Minutes later the aircraft mechanics were looking at the engine but it was funny because they were actually inspecting the left side engine and not the right side one. They had the wrong engine! I just chuckled a bit and went on my way.


Christiana from ACCESS met me at the airport and we discussed and joked about the incident on the plane. When the luggage was finally unloaded we headed fro a warung Jawa for lunch and found that they served nasi rawon - my favorite. But within the hour I was in a car heading for Waikabukbak about 4 hours east. The journey was long and slow with many mountains to cross on that long and winding road. Landscape varied from very dry and rocky to lush rain forests. I had heard about his feature of Sumba - how the east and west of the island were quite different in weather and landscapes. It certainly is true. After the engine failed yesterday way above the areas just east of Waingapu I had noticed the harshness of the land. I couldn't work out if it was smooth rock surface fro kilometer after kilometer or dried grass on a very flat surface. I was busy imagining at that time how the plane could land on it when the OTHER engine failed. At one stage I even saw a road that might be a good runway. As it turns out the surfaces I saw, and panicked over, were dried grass on barren surfaces awaiting the rains of the new wet season. I saw plenty of them during the first part of the road trip to Waikabubak.

Some of the Waikabubak teachers ....     .... and students who came after the KGRE Teacher Workshop.

The Organizing Committee fro the Waikabubak Teacher Workshop

Denny, my driver from the Hotel Sandlewood in Waingapu, was terrific and he was there to pick me on the morning of the 8th to take me to SMUN1 and the KGRE Teacher Workshop. Members of the organizing committee were there including Pak Sylvester, Pak Han and Pak Wan. We got under way after a welcome address by people from the DINAS and I want to thank them for their support of the activity too. The workshop went well as did the meeting with students after wards. Although fairly quiet there were a handful of students who asked many questions and were really keen to talk and ask questions. Of course QUIZ TIME made more students more willing to get involved. I hope that they write to me and ask for the KGRE magazine and possibly join the KGRE Connection network soon. They have to form a club first but and I really think that they will do that. I told them that I would be waiting for their first letter.  

After leaving SMUN1 we went to Radio Pelita Kasih to talk about broadcasting KGRE in Waikabubak. Management seemed quite interested and hopefully the students in that central Sumba town will soon have KGRE each week on their radios.

The 4 hour drive back to Waingapu was wonderful. The rains of recent days had turned the countryside green is so many areas and the setting sun created a wonderful, postcard type view for much of the journey. Sumba villages dotted the highway and although I didn't take a lot of pictures I did managed to get a few. Some interesting points all along the way were the number of horses on the roadside, the high pitched roofs atop the low slung houses, children and their bright smiling faces and curly hair. I enjoyed every minute of the trip even though I nodded off for a few minutes here and there. Parts of the scenery reminded me very much of Gippsland in eastern Victoria and also of the central highlands of northern New South Wales. Rolling hillsides where I fully expected to see dairy cows around the next corner. There were cows of course but not the Australian jersey and friesian cows that I am used to. 

On Thursday the 9th I spent most of the day with Christiana from ACCESS. We went to see some villages in an area that was showing interest in the ACCESS. They were poor villages who were somewhat at the mercy of distance and the seasons. The villages were about 10 km from the markets in Waingapu. In order for them to sell their produce (corn, chillis, etc.) they had to pay transport costs to the markets. These costs really ate into their profits for that. The money they make in this daily traveling and selling routine is very small indeed. In the wet season, and especially in January and February, the produce they are able to sell is much less than at other times in the year. The nearby river floods quite badly each wet season. At other times of the year it helps them to grow a wide variety of crops. No crops can be grown in that river location and so income is once again severely affected. The process of obtaining assistance from ACCESS is in process and hopefully these villagers will get help soon.

After that quick look 'n see journey along a very narrow and winding, dusty track we headed for the next site in Desa Kawangu. Dusun Karaha. This particular community is well into the ACCESS process of meetings, discussions and planning. At this meeting community members discussed with Arnidjawa and Roslina staff from LSM Pananua about the possibility of using goats rather than cows as an income generating activity.

ACCESS working with the community members - discussing goats!           Dry and hot fro sure!

During the meeting chickens, dogs and even little piglet wandered through the room. The room was basically a roof with bedek walls and it had a dirt floor covered with mats. It was however cool and airy and the meeting appeared to be a great success. We had lunch there and it was wonderful to hear all the laughter and goodwill between the villagers and the LSM staff working together with ACCESS. I am glad that I was able to attend and you know for once, I managed to keep pretty quiet. I did however explain a little about KGRE and what KGRE did in Indonesia and its connection to ACCESS. The kids loved the KGRE stickers I gave tot hem after the meeting even though they will probably never have the opportunity to learn English. Apparently in that area the highest they can go in school is SD Class 6.

Those kids were fantastic and so 'nakal'.

Checking out the 'compost fed' rice crop with Ibu Rambu.

Many cultural activities in Indonesia are connected with rice and rice harvests. Ibu Rambu is standing next to her ricefield in Desa Lambanapu near Waingapu. She is with ACCESS's Program Officer for NTT, Christriana (centre) and ACCESS Partner, Pak Umbu Lado.

In the afternoon it was time for more pupuk and compost for KGRE in Desa Lambahapu, about 6 km from the centre of Waingapu. We looked at the innovative work that a local NGO, LSM Mbaha Eti is doing with farmers. We looked at rice, tomatoes, kangkung, sawi, ginseng and chillies growing with the aid of special manure/compost developed in the community. Under the boughs of a huge tree beside a dried up river bed we saw compost being made. This production process is new to the villagers in this area but under the guidance of Pak Bambang and stafffrom Yayasan Mbaha Eti , there appears to be real progress being made. It certainly is not for lack of interest from the villagers including two young girls who are really keen to make this activity successful. As we learnt about the process I realized it is the same process that I saw used in the BEJIS supported project in Surabaya a month or so ago.

** Several minutes after this picture was taken one of the boys fell
     out of the tree into the rice field. He wasn't hurt and we all
     laughed and laughed about that.  It was very funny indeed.

Behind us on the open dry fields the local lads played football. Their game was occasionally interrupted by a Sumba horse wandering across the field. It was great to watch as horses appeared from everywhere and caused great uproar on the football field. We all laughed as did the players. The horse weren't amused though as players threw dirt and yelled at them to get off the playing area.

    Ibu Christana (second from left) with local farmer Pak Bambang     Experimenting with compost and farming methods with help from ACCESS

On Friday morning, Pak Bernados from Yayasan Karya Sejahtera picked me up on his new Honda WIN. We went to SMP1 in Waingapu for a hastily organized meeting with English language students there. There were about 25 students from SMP1, SMU 1 and SMU 2 at the meeting. They fired all sorts of questions at me and we a very keen and enthusiastic group indeed. Although I was unprepared for the visit I did manage to get a few prizes together fro a quiz. The students really loved that activity. They were also very keen on the idea of starting a language club and I hope that they do. Their teachers, Pak Melki and Ibu Ice were also interested in teacher workshops for 2004 and the possibility of getting KGRE broadcast in Waingapu.

Students at SMU 1 Waingapu         Pak Petrus

Before leaving for the airport I met with Pak Petrus from an ACIAR supported study project called 'Impacts of Fire and its use for sustainable land and forest management in Indonesia and Northern Australia'.  Pak Petrus really is into his work and was delighted to tell KGRE all about it.

Flores

The flight to Ende was uneventful mechanically speaking but there was beautiful scenery to marvel at as we flew along the southern coast of Flores. There were some pretty majestic volcanoes to be seen smoking happily in the afternoon sun. There is another volcano perched on the side of a mountain just as planes approach the airport in Ende. The airport is only perhaps a kilometer or two from the volcano. Sharon, one of the Australian Volunteers in Flores, met me at the airport complete with driver and car. We went almost immediately to the hotel and after depositing my bags and booking in we headed to Sharon's house for coffee and donuts. Ginny, another of the Ende based volunteers arrived soon after. So together with Sharon's husband Brad, we all enjoyed good old chin wag for a few hours. We talked about life as a volunteer in Ende, the workshops planned for the next day and some of the latest news from Australia. 

Ginny and Sharon with book packages  for their schools from AusAID and IALF Bali

While at Sharon's house I was shown several large boxes of books. They have since been given to their schools. Over Rp.120 million was donated by AusAID for these sets of books. IALF Bali, in co-operation with the volunteers, chose and bought the books. 

Day Five was Teacher Workshop Day in Ende. Ginny and Sharon, together with assistance from the DINAS, had spent many weeks putting together the workshop for local teachers. Teachers were already at SMU1 when we arrived there at 7.30am. Some had traveled over 3 hours from their isolated country school areas. It was great to see them so keen and raring to go. The workshop ran from 8.30am until just after 2pm. There were 70 or so teachers in attendance and they were keen to hear what I had to say. Many thanks to Ginny and Sharon for their help throughout the workshop. Twenty or so teachers ordered the Teacher Package and there was considerable interest in the free Reading Class Sets too. After the workshop I took a quick break and I returned to the hotel for a refreshing mandi. The evening was spent with Ginny and Sharon having dinner and gossiping!

On Sunday I went shopping with Ginny for ikat. We also drove past the house where President Sukarno lived after he was removed from the Presidency of Indonesia.

After that I began the journey to the mountains east of Ende and to the town on Bajawa. The drive was magnificent with breath-taking views of valleys, volcanoes and villages. The two volcanoes I saw were the magnificent Mt. Ebulobo (last erupted in 1969) and closer to Bajawa itself, Mt. Ine-Rie (Grandmother Mountain). It took  three hours to complete the journey and the scenery was spectacular. 

Arriving in Bajawa took me back to 1986 when I lived and worked in a little mountain town in Victoria called Woods Point - mountains all around, low clouds, cool air and everything very green. Bajawa is a pretty looking place with very friendly people. The school children were particularly friendly. The driver was fine and we listened to the same tape over and over again on the stereo. We heard Shania Twain for three hours. I soon met up with Duncan Buchanan, an AVI who has had a long relationship with Flores. Duncan came to Indonesia at the same time I did back in 1990. We both came as volunteers - he went to Ruteng and I went to Lombok. Duncan returned to Flores 18 months ago as a part of the AusAID/AVI project in Bajawa. Ginny and Sharon are a part of the same team as Duncan.


Monday in Bajawa was cool and a bit wet. Actually it was pretty cold in the early morning before the sum came up. The water in the kamar mandi was even colder and I certainly woke up very quickly when I used it. Hotel rooks with hot water cost 4 times the price and I was tempted to move to one of those rooms, believe me. I called in on the NTT PEP office for a quick hello and to organize meetings for Wednesday. I also rang Ogi in Bali to check on a few matters.

Duncan (left)  and Martin 'hard at work'.
In the afternoon I met with 15 students from various schools in Bajawa. We chatted and they asked lots of questions about KGRE and about Australia. None of them really knew much about KGRE but they do now! They were very keen to chat and their English language skills were terrific. Much of the day was spent in my hotel room writing articles for the December 2004 magazine. I did however go to the local market to look at ikat and to buy a couple of supplies.

On Tuesday I traveled with Duncan out to the Seminary at Mata Loka for the KGRE Teacher Workshop. He picked me up in a funny little green van. I asked him about the bemo type van and it turns out that it is the local prison van used to pick up and transport prisoners. The wife of the local Head of the Prison, Iby Ery, organized the transport for us and she actually came along as well. The ride was fine but we did attract a few funny looks especially when we arrived at the Seminary and got out of the prison van in front of the huge church.

Ibu Ery collecting information from some of the participants.

The workshop was terrific with really active and enthusiastic teachers. Some of the teachers had traveled for 3 hours by local transport to attend the workshop. The listened well and participated in all activities eagerly. It was also refreshing to hold a workshop in a location that wasn't so hot - Mata Loko is 1200 m above sea level as is Bajawa. For morning tea we had delicious buns made right there in the kitchens at the Seminary. Absolutely delicious! The Seminary has approximately 400 fulltime live in students and around 20 teachers. The grounds are beautiful with flowers and healthy looking trees and shrubs everywhere. The Seminary is about to celebrate their 75th anniversary.

My last day in Bajawa was Wednesday October 15th and it began once again with a very cold mandi. For breakfast I had a boiled egg, a banana pancake an coffee - HOT coffee!

My first appointment for the day was at NTT PEP to find out all about their radio program activities. I conducted interviews with local staff members Moses, Sri and Hendra plus Aussie staff members and head of the communication section of NTT PEP, Jason Brown. It was very interesting to hear all about the work of the project and you can hear that news on KGRE in early 2004.

The trip back down the mountain to Ende was uneventful. The driver kept his hand on the klaxon whenever he could, even on straight stretches of road. We heard country and western music by Conway Twitty for the full three hours. In Ende my hotel did not keep the booking for me that I had made two days earlier. So after the long trip and with a headache I settled into a kamar biasa for a little rest. Ginny and Sharon picked me up and we went out for dinner again. It was terrific as we talked about radio stations in Ende, their volunteer jobs (which are about to finish) and life in Ende. They had some more orders from their teachers for the Teacher Package and reported that the teachers who attended the workshop last week really enjoyed it. Let's hope those teachers use some of the ideas and activities we did when they next teach English in their classrooms.

Last day in Ende and I went to Sharon teaching in one of her schools - SLTPN 1. It was terrific to see the kids in the class. 

They were actually using the KGRE Reading Class Set from August. They were doing the Music Quiz and it was terrific to see their reactions to the questions. I must include more quizzes, music and language, in the next Reading Class Set. Sharon was team teaching with Pak David Rani, a keen teacher from that school. The students were terrific and obviously enjoyed their new styled lessons with these two teachers. It is all a part of the AVI project in Flores - actually being in the class and assisting local teachers with methodology. On hands interaction and assistance. Sharon, Ginny and Duncan also do workshops with teachers and when combined with team teaching experience they have provided valuable help tot heir teachers, and therefore to their students as well. 

After that visit I called into Sharon's house to do a quick interview with her and then I went to RRI Ende to see the Marketing Manager, Pak Slamet. He was formerly at RRI Mataram and we remember each other from there about two years ago. Our discussions were really good and I hope that KGRE will be on RRI Ende in November. Their broadcast area spreads out to Kupang, Sumba and just about all of Flores. This will be great for English language students in these areas who want to hear KGRE. Combined with stations in Waikabubak, Maumere, Ende (city broadcast only) and Kupang it means English language learners in the region can enjoy KGRE more easily. AVI volunteers in Ende also commented that RRI Ende is very professional and consistent.

I left Ende for the five hour drive to Maumere at around 11.00am. Ginny accompanied me as far as Detusoko where we called into two of her schools there. First was SDK and SLTPK 1 and the children there were just absolutely wonderful. They were courteous and polite. They spoke excellent English when they greeted me into their classrooms. They obviously love Ginny very much as do the teachers. It was just a quick visit but well worth it. The students asked me questions and then giggled a lot. I took some photos and they were so excited. 

After that school we drove up the hill to the orphanage run by Sisters of St Fransiskus where we had lunch with the sisters. They were lovely and the kids in the orphanage were so charming. Ginny also teaches at a nearby orphanage in this lovely and very picturesque part of Flores. She goes to Detusoko for three days every week. Ginny travels to Detusoko by bemo which means changing bemos twice each way and being on the road for at least an hour each way. Ginny loves the kids in these schools and just loves the countryside and the town of Detusoko.

The orphange 'gang' in the garden.

After lunch with Ginny and the sisters I left the orphanage. I headed to Maumere with my driver, Pak Hengky. It was a long drive and quite amazing really. There were many scary and damaged parts of the road. There were many landslides last wet season so road repairs were happening all along the road. The roads are built right on the edge of very steep mountain slopes and sometimes I just didn't even look down. The scenery is amazing and so rugged. I nodded off a few times but basically saw most of the sights along the way. The music on this trip was disco hits plus a cassette of old 50s rock and roll.

Michael Maran, a very busy teacher in Maumere and Jo Keating, AVI in Maumere, did a wonderful job organizing the Teacher Workshop. About 40 teachers joined in with the day's activities. Some came from as far away as the south coats of Flores - at least three hours by public transport. Jo Keating, the AVI in Maumere, commented that there are so many keen and enthusiastic teachers in the area. That seems very true as teachers came from all that way and yet so many teachers who live in Maumere didn't. I hope the workshop gave the some ideas and that they take advantage of the offers KGRE made to them - free materials, cassettes, stickers, internet print-outs and so on.

Every teacher was keen and enthusiastic - fantastic!               Taking orders for the KGRE TEacher Packages

On Friday night I went out for dinner with a large group of people including John Schottler from COREMAP, Maumere AVI Jo Keating and her family plus Jane Studdard. I first met Jane when I visited an AusAID supported series of activities in far west Kalimantan in 2002. It was good to catch up with her and to hear about her work as a volunteer in Maumere. Earlier in the day I also met Geraldine Deutromn. I first met her on my visit to Maumere in 2001 when she was involved in the very early stages of NTT PEP. Geraldine did much of the research for that project and it was very interesting to hear of her continuing involvement with the project. She expressed interest in what KGRE was doing these days and she hopes to have time early next year to drop in to the KGRE office in Bali to chat on KGRE. Geraldine is an expert on education and is very interested in how children learn especially in the first few years of school.

Saturday October 18th was a big day for me. Roberto from COREMAP picked me up at 6.00 am to go to the harbor in Maumere From there we went some villages on nearby islands. The trip was very in a high speed COREMAP speedboat. It only took 45 minutes compared to two and a half hours by local boat. Our boat was called Kangguru 2. That was funny to see written on the side of the boat.

Kojadoi

Seaweed sorting

I went on the boat ride with staff from DKP - Dinas Kelaut dan Perikinan. COREMAP was assisting them with transport and luckily I was allowed to go along as well. My guide was Pak Donatus Suban Garak who has been working with COREMAP for several years. We visited Desa Parumaan first and met with several locals involved with the work of the project. Then Donatus and I went in the boat to visit an area just offshore from Desa Pangabatang where the coral reef areas are under protection and surveillance. The water was crystal clear but the coral was damaged due to bombing and much of it was dead. The onto the village of Desa Kojadoi where we once again spoke with members of the community. This village is very active and very committed to not only COREMAP but to their own development and growth. Several valuable things have happened in the village recently. There has been assistance from COREMAP but also considerable input and effort from the community. The installation of a generator means that now there is electricity in the village between 6pm and 11pm each day. Seaweed cultivation is very successful and a thriving business. After these two brief visits we returned to Parumaaan to pick up the people from DKP. They conducted a meeting with locals there while we were away and by the time we arrived back they were just finishing up. We had lunch and I want to say that the fish and the terong were the best I have had for a long time. The ride back to Maumere was even quicker than the journey from Maumere. The ocean was like glass - smooth as silk! I was back in my hotel by 1.30 pm and I really had to have a rest. All that sea air and climbing in and out of boats was quite tiring. Later in the afternoon Pak Donatus came to the hotel for a KGRE interview. You can hear him on KGRE in early 2004.

What a great name for a boat!

Top speed and loving it!

On my last day in Maumere I walked across the road from the hotel and had breakfast with Jo Keating and her family. I took the opportunity to interview her and her three daughters. They talked about their schools and how they feel about living in Indonesia. They have been in Indonesia for two years and they really like it. They attend high schools in Maumere. Be sure to listen to KGRE in early 2004 to hear all about their activities in Maumere. My plane left Maumere at 12.15pm and before I knew it I was home in my house in Kerobokan by 1.30 pm. Another KGRE (epic) journey over. Back to the office now to finish writing the December magazine.


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